Garden Care | urbana

Garden Care General Recommendations:

All Urbana plants were born in our greenhouse with non-GMO seed. Here are some guidelines to increase the chances of healthy plants and bountiful harvests. Eastern Essex County NJ is in Zone 7. Gardening success depends on a combination of many parameters (some out of your control) so continual management is key.

Choose a garden location that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. The more sun the better especially for fruiting veggies. Leafy greens and herbs can get by on less sun. Use rich garden soil or compost. If possible install timed irrigation as this will be well worth it if July and August bring little rain. If you plan to have very early and late season hardy veggies like kale and cabbage, try to situate your grow bed perpendicular to a southern exposure. Use www.suncalc.org to see your orientation.
Before you transplant, keep your seedlings in an outdoor area or cool indoor area that is protected from frost, wind, rain and too much direct sun for a couple of days to a week. This will “harden” or acclimate the plants to the new environment. Every day you can move the plants to increase their exposure to cool temps and direct sunlight.
Do not overwater or underwater seedlings. Soil should be damp with some water weight but not soaked or very dry. Fertilizer is not yet necessary.
Transplant on a partly cloudy, light wind day if possible. Fertilize your soil before transplanting. Space plants according to variety. Tomatoes should be at least 24” apart while basil / cilantro / leafy greens should be around 8-12” apart. Water around the base of plants not on their tops. Water lightly if soil is damp or heavily if dry.
During the season, keep your garden well watered, weeded, and fertilized. If possible water under the foliage canopy as this helps to prevent blight (fungus); especially for tomato. Some veggies need to be caged, staked or trellised as they grow; ie. tomato, cucumber, pea, pole beans. Some gardens will need netting protection from deer and squirrels. Harvest your tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, peppers and peas often as this will encourage them to keep producing. If you have bug or blight issues there are many homemade soap / oil spray recipes online. Next season add soil amendments.

There are so many different schools of thought, methods and systems for gardening so do what fits your philosophy, lifestyle and location. Just keep growing and learning because it is deeply rewarding to connect with your food and nature!

Fig Tree Recommendation:

Growing a fig tree in USDA Zone 7 (like the South Orange and Maplewood area) is highly rewarding, but success depends on managing our winter "freeze-thaw" cycles. You can grow them successfully either in the ground or in containers.

Option 1: Growing In-Ground
In-ground trees grow larger and produce more fruit but require heavy winter protection for the first 3–4 years.

Location: Choose the sunniest spot available (6+ hours of direct sun). A south-facing wall is ideal as it provides a "heat sink" to help fruit ripen faster in the fall.

Planting: Plant in spring after the last frost. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. Figs aren't picky about soil but require excellent drainage; avoid low spots where water pools.

Winter Protection: This is the most critical step for Zone 7. Once the tree drops its leaves and is fully dormant (usually late November), wrap it in burlap and stuff it with straw or dry leaves. Top it with a waterproof "cap" (like a bucket or tarp) to keep moisture out of the center.

Option 2: Growing in Pots (Containers)
This is the easiest way to manage rare or less hardy varieties, as you can bypass the "wrapping" process entirely.

Pot Size: Start with a 5-gallon pot for young trees, moving up to a 10 or 15-gallon "forever home" as they grow. Ensure there are plenty of drainage holes.

Soil: Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix (not garden soil). Mix in some perlite or pine bark to ensure the roots never sit in soggy mud.

Watering & Feeding: Potted figs dry out quickly. In the heat of summer, they may need water every day. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring and mid-summer, but stop all feeding by August 1st to let the tree prepare for winter.

Winter Storage: When the leaves fall, move the pot into an unheated garage, shed, or basement. The goal is to keep the tree between 20°F and 45°F—cold enough to stay dormant, but protected from the killing deep freezes of mid-January.

Universal Tips for Zone 7 Success

Pruning: Prune in late winter while the tree is dormant. Remove any crossing branches or "suckers" coming from the base to keep energy focused on fruit production.

The "Pinch": In late June, "pinch" off the growing tip of each branch (once it has 5-6 leaves). This signals the tree to stop making wood and start ripening the tiny figs.

Harvesting: Unlike peaches or pears, figs do not ripen once picked. Wait until the neck of the fig wilts and the fruit hangs down vertically. A ripe fig should feel like a soft balloon filled with water.